Tips for future car racers

Start the engine either by turning it over or by electronic ignition. The motor should already be started by the time the announcer comes over the PA. Give it some gas to get her warm. Just keep an eye on the temp and be sure all gauges are working properly.
Racing sports cars means running 500 to 1000 horsepower, you can just imagine the g- forces that are in all that power. Many secrets for additional horsepower are turbo or bigger turbo. If you slide out when racing that means to much power for the track and need to tune before racing.


Racing with an automatic transmission over a standard in racing is not recommended. Usually this is for the rookies if they can’t shift on their own. Usually people who have been racing like to race with a Manuel because of the feel they get when downshifting then boosting back up to 8grand. Track cars or bracket cars can be used as automatics but when it comes to drag racing and drifting its all about the standard.

When you are racing sometimes it is hard or unavoidable to skid the wall. This is not a cause for alarm but should be taken seriously. If you are an experienced driver or racer then you are probably already fine with the wall but in drifting its different you’re sliding towards the wall at about 60 mph trying to drift parallel to it. It can get very insane at times when you see someone’s rear come within an inch of the wall and they drift it perfectly.


Always stay beneath the white lane at 100mph or over this is just so other racers can avoid crashes and crashing into one another. After you have made speed with others and are at speed you can begin drafting again.

Keep your eyes on the road or track at all times. Be steady and don’t let your hands ever slip off the wheel while making a fast turn or while drifting this can result in a crash injury or fatality.

Part of being careful and focused also knows that there is an emergency button on every sports car when it is being raced. It is usually in the middle of the dash where the driver can easily reach it and punch it. This button will automatically tell the cars ECU to shut down the cars motor.

Keep in mind that in a bad situation the sports car can still be driven but it isn’t a good idea since most sports cars being raced today are running with injected fluids such as methanol or alcohol.

tips perbaikan mobil saat darurat dijalanan yang macet

Layanan Tips Perbaikan Darurat ini menyediakan informasi seputar problem dan cara-cara perbaikan darurat pada kendaraan Anda yang mungkin terjadi pada saat berkendara.

Persiapan sebelum perbaikan

1. Parkir kendaraan pada lokasi yang aman. Bila di jalan tol, posisikan pada lajur darurat (paling kiri) atau di tepi jalan.
2. Pasangkan segitiga pengaman di belakang atau di depan sesuai dengan arah kendaraan lain yang akan menuju kendaraan pada kendaraan Anda. Pasangkan pada jarak minimal 2 meter dari kendaraan Anda.
3. Nyalakan lampu tanda darurat (hazard) untuk memberi peringatan pada pengendara lain.

Wiper tidak berfungsi pada saat hujan

1. Aktifkan penyejuk udara (AC) untuk mencegah terjadinya pengembunan pada kaca.
2. Turunkan kaca jendela sampai ada lubang untuk udara luar masuk.
3. Bila ada, taburkan serbuk teh pada kaca depan bagian luar agar air dapat mengalir.
4. Berkendaralah pada jalur lambat agar tidak mengganggu pengendara lain.

Saat ban kempes

1. Untuk mencegah steer susah dikendalikan yang akan membahayakan penumpang, perlu dihindari menekan pedal rem secara tiba-tiba.
2. Atur arah kendaraan agar tidak membahayakan bagi penumpang maupun pengendara lain.
3. Lakukan pengereman dengan menurunkan gigi percepatan secara bertahap hingga kendaraan berhenti. Jangan panik dan tetap konsentrasi pada arah kendaraan.
4. Bila tidak ada ban pengganti, atasi ban kempes dengan memasukkan cairan power glue pada bagian ban yang bocor.

Saat mengalami rem blong atau rem macet

1. Turunkan kecepatan kendaraan dengan memindahkan gigi perseneling yang lebih rendah secara bertahap (5-4, 4-3, 3-2, 2-1).
2. Setelah kecepatan kendaraan menurun, lakukan pengereman dengan menggunakan rem tangan.
3. Apabila pada bahu jalan terdapat rumput, gunakan bahu jalan yang berumput tersebut untuk membantu menghentikan kendaraan.

Saat mengalami mesin overheating (radiator bocor)

1. Tambalkan radiator bocor dengan sabun mandi/pisang.
2. Tambahkan air pendingin. Jangan membuka tutup radiator dalam kondisi temperatur mesin panas dan mesin mati, hal ini akan mengakibatkan semburan air yang sangat berbahaya.
3. Saat membuka tutup radiator usahakan pada saat mesin masih hidup atau menunggu sampai mesin dingin. Dan gunakan kain lap untuk mencegah terbakarnya kulit Anda.
4. Bila dalam kondisi tidak aman, tetap jalankan kendaraan dengan mengontrol temperatur. Bila temperatur mesin mulai naik di atas setengah (1/2), matikan dan dinginkan mesin. Setelah temperatur turun di bawah normal kembali jalankan kendaraan Anda.

Kopling tidak berfungsi normal/kabel kopling putus)

1. Matikan mesin, sehingga penggerak tidak berputar.

   Steer berat (Power Steering)

   Putar roda kemudi, pada saat yang bersamaan jalankan kendaraan maju atau mundur. Hal ini bermanfaat untuk mengurangi besarnya gesekan yang terjadi pada kembang ban terhadap permukaan jalan.

   Mesin mogok di ruas jalur cepat di jalan tol

2. Nyalakan lampu tanda darurat (lampu hazard) untuk memberitahukan ke pengendara lain sebelum Anda turun dari kendaraan.
3. Pasang segitiga pengaman di bagian belakang kendaraan pada jarak yang aman (sekitar 2 meter dari kendaraan).
4. Lambaikan sesuatu yang kelihatan kontras (contoh warna merah atau kuning) dari bagian belakang kendaraan.
5. Hubungi emergency Hotline/ pihak jasa marga.
6. Masukkan perseneling ke gigi percepatan 2, kemudian hidupkan mesin.
7. Jalankan kendaraan selama perjalanan dengan gigi perseneling 2 tersebut.
8. Jalankan kendaraan pada jalur lambat dan hindari jalur dengan kendaraan sering berhenti.
9. Hindari jalan macet.
10. Jagalah jarak aman sekitar 40-100 meter dari kendaraan di depan Anda.

Koil Panas

1. Lakukan pengompresan terhadap koil dengan lap basah sampai koil dingin.
2. Hidupkan mesin dan jalankan kendaraan.
3. Lakukan kembali bila terjadi panas lagi.

Brake Bleeding Tutorial, Tips and Pictures - Bleed Brakes Like You Mean It

It isn't exactly common practice but most Hondas' brake fluid should be flushed-or bled-every 30,000 miles or so. It'll also need to be performed any time the system is opened, like when changing brake lines or swapping master cylinders or calipers. Generally, if only one corner of the vehicle or a single line is cracked open, it's only necessary to bleed that corner. However, if the system has been left open for more than a few minutes, it might be necessary to bleed each corner.

Brake bleeding isn't one of those glorified tasks recognized by anyone who happens to own a car, like an oil change or coolant top off. No, brake system bleeding is easy to overlook and its symptoms can be gradual, even subtle, like a sinking or soft pedal or excessive brake steer. Perhaps the reason brake system bleeding is often overlooked is because of the procedure's difficulty. You simply can't drain the master cylinder reservoir and dump in a pint of fresh fluid-this just doesn't satisfy Honda's recommendation and, if it did, we'd likely see just as many drive-through brake flush shops as we do quick lubes. The procedure lies with the entire system-not just the master cylinder-where air bubbles, even sediments, can be trapped within the fluid, impairing proper operation and ultimately how well a car can stop.

There are four ways to bleed a brake system: the most common is the two-person manual method but there's also the single-person manual, pressure, and vacuum methods. No matter which one you choose, begin by removing the master cylinder reservoir cap and strainer. Stir the reservoir fluid to allow sediment or particles to float in suspension and remove them with a turkey baster or vacuum bleeder. Use a lint-free rag to wipe down the reservoir walls and strainer of any remaining sediment and dirt. You may need to repeat this a couple of times. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid-Honda DOT 3 brake fluid (part number 08798-9008) works well, although there are other options. It's important to note that brake fluid is a solvent and also works well as a paint remover. Clean up spills with water as quickly as possible if you value that paint job.

Bleeding Sequence
Hondas have four bleeder screws-one at each caliper or drum-but you can only do one at a time. Always start with the caliper (or drum) farthest from the master cylinder working your way back to the closest one and be sure to top off the master cylinder periodically to avoid running dry. The sequence is as follows: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

When bleeding brakes, it's important not to force the brake pedal down more than halfway. This runs the risk of driving the master cylinder's secondary piston through debris collected on the piston cylinder walls. In other words, you could end up shopping for a new master cylinder shortly after you're done bleeding those brakes.

There are two reasons you might need to bleed your brakes: Either the fluid is old, dirty, and discolored, or you've got air bubbles in your lines. Either way, be sure and suck the master cylinder reservoir dry and clean it out thoroughly before pouring in new fluid.

It's important to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped off during the entire bleeding procedure. Pumping a dry brake system could lead to other failures. Quickly tip a bottle of brake fluid over the master cylinder reservoir and leave it in place during the procedure. This will keep you from having to periodically refill the reservoir.

D Series EF Civic and CRX Hydraulic Transmission Swap - Wrenchin

As a parent, in order to make things fair you have to treat each child the same as you do your firstborn. With engines, the B-series always seems to get the most attention so it's time for a good tech story with the D-series engines that are becoming more and more popular.

One of the biggest problems with the second CRX and fourth-generation Civic chassis, or the EF as it's also known, is its weak aluminum shift forks. Quick shifts, like you'd do at the dragstrip, place added pressure on the forks, which make them respond by snapping faster than Britney Spears. Losing a shifter fork won't just stop you from shifting, it can also send pieces flying around your gears, making the repair even more difficult.

The newer hydraulic transmissions, which made its debut on the '92 Civics, had a complete internal redo with much stronger stamped steel shift forks. These transmissions are quite strong and, aside from synchro problems, are very reliable. But getting one in your older EF cable-operated transmission-bodied chassis is a big project.

The first challenge is that the EF chassis lacks firewall provisions for the hydraulic piston needed to operate the hydro transmission's slave cylinder. Those with talent and time have mounted one on the inside of the firewall and made a custom clutch pedal mechanism to drive it, but that's beyond what Honda Tuning preaches.

The next challenge is the mount. The newer tranny has a slightly different setup so a bit of welding and fabrication would be needed to make it bolt in. Finally, the speedo sensor can be a problem, but of them all, this is the easiest to conquer.

With so many of these stronger hydro transmissions laying around the junkyards, it was only a matter of time before someone created a complete kit to help EF guys make the swap. When it comes to Hondas and complete kits that someone is nearly always Hasport. The big name in swaps now has a complete bolt-in kit for any of the fanatic D-series guys who feel the need to swap that hydraulic tranny into their EF.

The swap you see here is the most unique and includes a few extra parts, but we'll be sure to make note of what you need if you simply want to put a newer Civic Si hydro tranny in your older EF Civic Si and call it a day. This car is a dedicated drag car and has a ZC twin-cam engine but retains the car's original transmission. The extra is a JDM-only LSD that's found in ZC-engined CRXs and Civics. T

Fuel Injector and Resistor Box Basics - Wrenchin'

For simplicity's sake, let's just say there are two kinds of fuel injectors: peak and hold and saturated. The difference between the two has to do with resistance. Peak and hold (aka low impedance) injector coils exhibit less electrical resistance than saturated (aka high impedance) injector coils. Typically, peak and hold Honda injectors will exhibit between 2 to 3 ohms resistance while saturated ones will measure somewhere around 12 ohms. This is all pretty useless and boring information until you do something like an engine transplant or go out and swap your stock fuel injectors for a high-flow set.

Injectors are really just valves controlled by the ECU by timed electrical signals called pulse widths. Honda fuel injectors rely on constant power for their pulse widths-the ecU supplies the ground-therefore, the injectors open and close based upon ground signals dictated by the computer. When ground is applied, they close and when it's not, they open. Some Honda ECUs are not designed to work with low impedance injectors. An injector or ECU swap or engine transplant can be all it takes to fry an otherwise perfectly good ECU-and that's exactly what can happen given the right circumstances.

The problem has to do with heat, which can be correlated to resistance in this case. For those Honda ECUs not designed for low impedance injectors, their injector drivers can heat up and fail because of the added current. Even the injectors themselves can heat up. With peak and hold drivers, the 12V is still delivered to the injector but current rises. Testing has revealed nearly double the temperature when using low impedance injectors on the wrong application. It's important to note that resistance decreases current and that current creates heat. If current can't be reduced then the chances of the drivers heating up and failing is increased. Of course, some of this depends on driving habits as well. High engine speeds and injector duty cycles can also create added heat, like when driving up a hill or at the track.

Battery Science - Shocked

photographer: Marcus DI Sabella, E. John Thawley III

When an exhaust, coilovers, front lip, JDM interior trim or even power provided via ITBs or boost become standard fare, where do we go next? When all's been done and there's seemingly nothing more to do, might we suggest less as the new more? We speak, of course, of introducing weight reduction to your car's repertoire. Such a concept is not new since there's scarcely an aspect of vehicle performance that can't be improved upon by mass reduction. Indeed, a major reason why Hondas are such great cars is its favorable power-to-weight ratios. Removing interior bits and swapping items for lighter equivalents has become standard procedure, but only recently have we seen the compact, lightweight battery go mainstream.

The Basics
The car battery: A necessary evil for enthusiasts of all walks. Every car needs one and, given their size, they're inevitably heavy. Lead is the main ingredient here, which the periodic table tells us is rather heavy. Smaller batteries contain less lead and are therefore lighter but are less capable of discharging electricity. So it becomes important, before choosing a lightweight battery as a means of performance gains, to better understand them and their implications. Are you interested in the pros and cons of lightweight batteries and your Honda? Read on.

The Password:JDM battery relocator mounts an Odyssey PC680MJ low in the engine compartment providing much needed underhood space for this EF chassis Civic.

Batteries are simply energy-storing power units called upon for operating electrical devices. They're made with lead plates that directly contact an electrolytic sulfuric acid solution. Lead-acid batteries use a liquid solution while dry cell, gel cell or absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries use a liquid suspended within a solid medium. When a battery is connected to a circuit, electrons transfer between the plates, flowing electricity through the circuit to perform work.

Electricity flows based on two properties: voltage and current. Resistance is a property of the circuit, which impedes electrical flow and drops voltage. Voltage, resistance and current can all be mathematically related to one other. If high school physics left any impression you may be familiar with Ohm's law, where current (I) is equal to the amount of voltage (V) divided by the resistance (R) or I=V/R. The relationship makes sense. Relate volts to your engine's torque output and current to the car's speed. If resistance is high (a strong headwind or traveling uphill) a given amount of torque will result in a lower speed. This relationship is the basis for nearly all things electrical.

Resistance And Extreme Temperatures
The starter is the car's main electrical device in terms of power draw. The amount of power the starter requires to initially turn the engine over is related to the engine's size, compression ratio, number of accessories being driven, internal weights and friction. Each factor emits a greater mechanical resistance and that translates into electrical resistance within the starter system. To overcome it, a battery of adequate power potential must be selected. Likewise, in a car that has been modified in such a way that resistance has been reduced a smaller battery can be used.

Braille Auto offers a battery mount specifically for its batteries. Clean, solid mounting is a must when relocating to the rear. Sealed units do not need battery boxes.

It's also significant to understand that the chemical reaction that's taking place inside the battery is temperature sensitive. The energy discharge within creates heat. When subjected to cold temperatures, the battery becomes cold-soaked, inhibiting electron flow inside the electrolytic solution. It also promotes a sulfate barrier forming on the lead plates, which translates to higher internal resistance within the battery. Choosing a battery with low internal resistance is advantageous but a good rule of thumb is to use a battery warmer when you know it's going to get cold. This not only works for OEM batteries but lightweight ones too.

Conversely, high temperatures can cause the reverse to occur. When exposed to heat, batteries experience a lower internal resistance than normal. This might sound like a good thing but the result is a self-overcharging battery. A certain amount of internal resistance is needed in order to keep the chemical reaction in check. Otherwise, the lead plates will corrode and cause the battery to swell or expand. It can literally charge itself to death.